Xiahe is a tiny, bustling town centered in a valley
of the Ganan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, southwest
Gansu. At three thousand meters above sea level, and
surrounded by hilly mountains, this rural haven hugs
its neighboring Tibet. The town centers upon the famous
Labrang Monastery, that rests in the center of town,
about one and a half kilometers from the towns only
bus station.
Few people, having followed the encircling
Prayer Wheels around the monastery, having rode Tibetan
style in the Sangke Grasslands, having hiked into
the surrounding mountains for vistas of the mottled
Tibetan section of town or having eaten their fill
of yak yoghurt and Tibetan Tsampa, will fail to appreciate
this area. Leaving it either for a northward journey
thorough Gansu, or for the grueling roads south to
Sichuan will only be a trial.
It is not just the amazing sights
that will enamour you with Xiahe, but also the vibrant
atmosphere. The locals and nomads that you will see
in the village live a laid-back lifestyle that will
appeal to those who have been traveling for almost
any length of time. The population here is made up
of 45% Tibetan, 45% Han and 10% Hui, making this a
good place to behold monks in bright purple, yellow
and red, nomads clad in sheepskins, and the Hui Muslims
with skull caps and wispy beards. The town is also
a thoroughfare for incoming pilgrims from the obvious
Qinghai and Tibet, to the many backpacking Westerners.
Xiahe is the most famous of the Tibetan
towns outside of Tibet. The town grew to fame along
with the Labrang Monastery, that marks and dominates
the center of town. Monks wander about here, beaming
beatific smiles and helping run, or just loitering
about in, local hotels and restaurants. The monastery
is encircled by a prayer wheel path and dissected
by the town's one main road. The majority of the monastery's
sights are in the northern segment, however the Gongtang
Pagoda, in the southwestern corner has some great
views from its roof.
The Tibetan town, unmistakable for
its old mud houses and small mud track roads, is in
the western section of Xiahe, across the river from
the Labrang Hotel. This section houses monks from
the Red Hat Sect, and the Red Hat Sect Temple (Hongjiao
si) is near the center here.
Further afield are a few less tourist
filled sights, including the desolate green of the
Sangke Grasslands and the remote alpine charm of the
town of Langmusi. These are great areas to get away
and experience a little of the rural China that we
often do not get to experience.
infotmation