Chongshan Monastery Jinci Temple Provincial Museum Twin Pagoda Temple

Taiyuan Introduction

The dynastic cycle, with long periods of prosperity followed by periods of decline, rebellion & bloodshed, has long been considered the model for China's past. This cycle is no better highlighted than in the history of the Shanxi capital, Taiyuan, whose swings have affected the town/city since its inception.

The original town of Taiyuan was first settled over 2,500 years ago. Lying in the heart of Shanxi Province, this area was strategically vital, separating the troublesome north and northwest from the prosperous, stable lands to the south and southeast. As the town grew it was here that frequent battles were fought, and this is indicated by the 27 temples that were dedicated to the god of war. The first proper invasion of the area was in 200 BC by the Mongols, and the town was in and out of war until the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534 AD) was established.

The town at this time entered a period of stability for a number of years. The Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) saw the golden years in the city, as prosperity soared and infrastructure was vastly improved. Trade in silk and numerous other commodities hit an all time high and the town was well known as a stable post on the edges of Han Chinese control. The most interesting new product at this time was the imported grapes, that have been grown in this area ever since.

The following Five Dynasty Period (907-960 AD) saw some of the most turbulent times that the city has experienced, as various factions attempted to extend their influence of power. It was in 976AD that the city suffered its worst fate, being burnt to the ground by unhappy Song Dynasty forces.

Prosperity returned from the eleventh century, as the city became a great center for trade and industry. It was in this area, especially around the town of Pingyao, that the great financial institutions of China were founded. Basic stability continued up until the nineteenth century, towards the end of which the city emerged as a major economic powerhouse. The Boxer Rebellion (1898-1900), a Chinese faction's war against foreign oppression and the Qing Dynastic system, particularly affected the city, however. It was here that all the resident foreigners were killed, possibly in part because of their role in the extraction of the mineral resources in the province.

The Republic of China (1912-1949) that followed, saw the region's most warlike warlord, Yan Xishan, take Taiyuan as his capital. Although only mildly Republican at heart, the warlord carried on with the economic and industrial growth that had continued (with foreign help despite the Boxer massacre). This growth and industrial concentration was a theme that continued after the Communist succession (est.1950), and this has changed the face of Taiyuan.

The city nowadays, perched in the heart of Shanxi Province, is generally considered just a stopover for those heading south to the ancient imperial capital, Xi'an, or those trecking north to the grottoes/hanging monastery near Datong and the sacred Buddhist mountain of Wutaishan. Like much of the cities and towns in this region, Taiyuan is heavily polluted, by coal particles, from the abundant coal reserves, and the smog from various factories and homes. The ancient architecture and temples that once filled the town are now hard to come across, although there are a few sights out of town were these can still be found.

Sight Overview

Taiyuan is a city with over two thousand years of history and, despite modern changes that have vastly altered the look (and smell) of the city, there still remain a few sights, from Buddhist temples to traditional northern Chinese architecture, that could interest those who find themselves here.

The center of the city is probably the large May First Square (Wuyi guangchang), at the eastern end of Yingze dajie and to the west of the railway station. The nearest sight from here is the second section of the Provincial Museum, that can be found in the old Chungyang Palace, just to the northwest of the square. This holds some interesting ancient artifacts, including some nice bronze work and ceramics. Almost due east of here, past the square, lies the first section of the museum, that used to be the old Confucius Temple, and that is now most interesting for the architecture of its halls. About 200 meters north of the Confucius Temple Museum lies the ancient Chongshan Temple, an active place of worship that has numerous sutras and some well maintained halls contained within its walls. This temple was built in commemoration of the death of the Ming Dynasty's first empress.

In the south of the city are a few sights that may be worth visiting. There is a park, Yingze Park, to the southwest of May First Square, that is large, although mostly lake. The final sight, the Twin Pagoda Temple, is to the southeast and is the symbol of the city. These two 13 storey pagodas, standing side by side, tower to a height of around 50 meters, giving a great view of the city from their top storeys.

It is not the city sights, however, that are likely to draw travellers to Taiyuan. If you wish to spend more than a passing moment in the city, then the little town of Pingyao, the setting for the film "Raise the Red Lantern", comes highly recommended. The ancient architecture that can be found within the old town walls is some of the best in the whole of China. Also of interest out of the city are two temples, the nearer Jinci Temple, that houses a large mixture of dynastic buildings, and the Shuanglin Temple, a mostly Ming Dynasty Buddhist complex, 7km to the southwest of Pingyuan.