Shanxi Introduction

Legend tells us that the billowy Yellow River (Huang he) and the Yangtze River (Changjiang) are two huge dragons, acknowledged to be the cradles of ancient Chinese civilisation. Shanxi Province, in this case, has some of the most telling proof. Bisected by the Yellow River and overlooking Shaanxi Province across the waters, Shanxi contains evidence of the one of the oldest civilisations in China, and the world.

Loess and coal are the most distinguishing geographical features of Shanxi. Looked at from above the province appears scarred with long deep fissures, slashed across the brown or yellow soil. The Gobi Desert (Gebi tan shamo), that sits to the north/northwest of Shanxi, is highly influential towards this changing landscape, and the frequent, yet mild sandstorms that rip through this area are testament to this. It was, however, in a soil somewhat similar to this that early settlers of the Chinese civilisation first took root. Today, many of these Neolithic sites, that are dotted across the vast expanse, can still be seen.

The Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534 AD), taking Datong as its capital, saw the start of imperial favour for the province. The area was considered worthy for a number of reasons, part secular, from the prosperity that the area had shown linked to its lifeline the Yellow River, and part religious, with the famous Buddhist mountain in the north, Wutaishan, considered as a haven for the pious believer.

Shanxi's name, translated as "west of the mountain", derives from the Taihang Mountain Range that lies on its eastern boundary. It was this natural barrier to the east that made Shanxi, with its neighbor Shaanxi, the ideal routes for rebellious northern nomadic tribes to make their harries into the prosperous and Han established south. For centuries this route had been blocked, partially by the Great Wall (Changcheng) that still winds past Shanxi's northern border, but mostly by efficient imperial forces who were defending their capital. These strains were beginning to tell by the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), however, and the capital was wisely moved further south, to Henan. Shanxi was to fall out of favour for many centuries, with the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD) placing their capital in Kaifeng, the Mongolian Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368 AD) taking Beijing as its capital, the Han Chinese Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD) moving to Hangzhou and then back to Beijing, and so it goes on...

The 20th century saw huge industrial and provincial changes in Shanxi. In the years of the Republic (1911-1950) the province first succumbed to provincialism, under the strong rule of the warlord Yan Xishan, who held the province in the nominal name of the Republic of China (Kuoming tang), but who in fact was the final say in almost all matters. The Japanese, expanding their influence into the Chinese empire, were next to infiltrate the area, bringing modern technical know-how, and initiating the first, large-scale industrial campaign. Coal thus made its major entrance into the history of Shanxi. After the communist takeover in 1950, the number of coal and iron plants mushroomed, mainly in the areas around Taiyuan and Datong. Nowadays the province produces around 30% of China's output of coal, and it provides electricity to a number of other provinces, including Beijing.

Shanxi today is a relatively backward land, made worse by hostile climatic conditions and often drab, yellow landscapes. Thankfully, signs of ancient magnificence and beauty can still be found, usually in hard to access areas well off the tourist route. The more obvious of these include the Buddhist wonders of the Yungang Grottoes & Wutaishan and the whistling rage of the Yellow River's Kettle Spout Falls (Hukou pubu). Less obvious sights, and for this reason possibly more of a reason to visit, are those little hidden towns and temples, such as the ancient town of Pingyao and the remote Guansheng Temple, upon whom arrivals are normally worth the long journeys.

Best Time To Visit: Climate
With a high altitude, but with the eastern Taihang Mountain ridges blocking the marine currents, Shanxi Province has a cold and dry climate. Throughout the year there is always a strong temperature drop between day and night. The province is also frequently plagued by sandstorms, especially in the spring, so it is often useful to bring along both sunglasses and a hat when visiting.

The climates in all of the main traveller areas are also highly variable, so you will need to check out their individual climate details before arriving. Wutaishan, for example, is inaccessible between September and about April due to freezing temperatures, whereas Taiyuan, the capital of the province, has a relatively mild climate all year round. Generally speaking, the province's climate is best between May and October.

Suggested Itineraries
A tour of Shanxi Province is most obviously started in the capital Taiyuan, if for no other reason than for its convenient transport systems.

Day One: In the morning, take a bus for Pingyao from the long distance bus station. You are expected to arrive at the destination in around two hours. Before lunch, stroll the streets in the ancient town, which are among the best preserved in China. Have lunch at one of the old restaurants. In the afternoon, visit some of the attractions listed in the introduction. Of these, Qiao's residence is definitely not to be missed. Stay at one of the local hotels.

Day Two: At 06:41, take train K126/127 back to Taiyuan. Upon arrival, from in front of the railway station, take bus No.8 (RMB2) to Jinci Temple. The journey should take about 45 minutes, and for the rest of the morning you can enjoy the temple. In the afternoon, take the same bus back to town. The Provincial Museum lies not far from the bus terminus, if you wish to visit it. Also worth checking out is the Chongshan Monastery, just to the back of the museum. Stay at one of the local Taiyuan hotels.

(Optional Day: We will make today light enough for you to restore enough energy for the ensuing tour. You may wish to pay a visit to the Twin Pagoda Temple.)

Day Three: In the early morning, take a bus heading to Wutaishan from the long-distance bus station in Wuyi Square. Due to the relatively poor road conditions, you will not get to the mountain until about late afternoon. All you can do is to have a walk around Taihuai village and restore enough stamina at one of the local hotels or guest houses.

Day Four: This day is specially designated to Buddhist exploration in the mountain. You may take a minibus and shuttle between the temples. In the afternoon, go back to Taihuai and take a bus to Datong, via the Hanging Monastery in Hengshan. Stay at a local hotel.

Day Five: Take bus No.2 from the railway station to the Xinkaili bus station in the western part of town and then take bus No.3 until the terminus. The famed Yungang Grottoes is to be found here. In the afternoon, head back to town by the same bus. You should have enough time to look at the Nine Dragon Screen before nightfall. Stay a second night in a local hotel.

Day Six: In the morning, from the city center, take a bus to Huayan Monastery. After lunch, head directly to Shanhua Temple. At 22:20, take train No.1591/1594 that arrives at Linfen at 09:06.

Day Seven: In the morning, take a bus to Guangsheng Temple and get back before noon. At around 12:00, you may take a bus that heads towards Yan'an (in Shaanxi Province). After six hours' drive (costing around RMB30), you may get off at the Hukou Falls. Stay in a local hotel (recommended is the Hukou Guesthouse).

Day Eight: In the morning, visit the falls. After lunch, you may take the same bus and head to Yan'an, where you may take a train to Xi'an, thus concluding your tour.